Clint Cook and I went to check out Bird Brain Boulevard this morning. Up on Camp Bird Mine Road; it’s notorious for long run outs and dicey protection with crampons and ice axes on your appendages . Sounds fun…?! With 6 inches of new snow covering the rock, we headed to South Mineral Creek to seek ice instead. We ended up climbing the Direct North Face. Of all the routes, it held the most ice and looked the most intriguing. Though a much different experience than climbing Bird Brain, it was nice to cruise on easy ice.
Climbed the 2nd Gully in Silverton today with Andres Marin. Since there isn’t much snow we could drive right to the base , put crampons on at the car and started climbing. The ice was thin in spots, but overall in great conditions. Below are a few photos from the day…
Over the last four years, I seem to find myself in the North Cascades teaching guiding training programs for the AMGA. This year I was co-teaching with Jeff Ward and despite some of the worst weather I’ve seen in the North Wet, we still managed to get a lot in over the ten days. On this particular day we climbed Mount Shuksan; one team climbed the North Ridge and down the South, while the other team climbed the Southwest Ridge and circumnavigated the peak. Both teams then met on the upper Curtis Glacier and practiced crevasse rescue. Below are some images of it and a movie of the North Ridge shot a few years ago.
Robert Krinsky and I climbed All Mixed Up on this beautiful November day. Not a single person was seen and we were fortunate to have relatively warm weather and very light wind. Somewhat unexpected for RMNP. We had a blast climbing it! Here’s a great view of the four pitch route in it’s entirety.
The first pitch was relatively easy WI 2+, with only a few thin sections. In general, fun easy fat ice.
Pitch two had a fair bit of moderate mixed climbing. Really fun, but somewhat hard to protect. If you look hard enough you can find small stopper and cam placements and the occasional piton along the way. The crux of the route in these conditions, probably WI 4- M3+, super FUN!
The upper section of the second pitch is below. Pitch three starts out with a short steep step followed by a low angle snow ramp. The belay is off to the left of the last pillar. With small to medium size cams you can make an excellent rock anchor here.
The final pitch which is usually the crux at WI4, felt more like WI3 with a short mixed step exiting the cave on the left side of the flow.
Robert pulling the final moves!
Looking at the west side of Long’s Peak during our descent. The main couloir heading up Long’s is the Trough.
Some nice words from Robert after our climb…..
“This was among the best ice climbing outings that I have enjoyed in the 3 years that I have been at it. The day’s success was due to your impressive technical skill, first rate temperment, clarity of instruction, attention to safety, engaging personality, and a wonderful zest for adventure. It would be a terrific to be guided by you again, thanks Keith.”
Martin Volken a fellow instructor and examiner for the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) put together this amazing video of what it takes to get an alpine certification. Check it out!
.jpg "South Mineral Creek; we parked right below the Direct North Face")
 copy.jpg "Ouray, CO rock climbing with AMA")
