Mont Blanc was first climbed on August 8, 1786, at which time was considered the birth of Alpinism. Over two hundred years later, Mont Blanc at 15,782′ (4,810 meters) is still a coveted peak amongst Alpinist and the highest in Western Europe.
Goûter Route and Mont Blanc Traverse
The routes up Mont Blanc include varied snow and ice climbing on immense glaciers and along exposed ridges. The route we choose will depend on conditions, but we most typically climb either the Goûter Route or a traverse of the three summits; Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and finally to the summit of Mont Blanc. The night before, we stay in either the Cosmique, Tête Rousse, or Goûter refuge, where the hut keepers prepare a satisfying three course dinner before our pre-dawn start. The views are incredible as we first watch the sunrise and then peer down into the Chamonix valley, the Swiss Alps and the beautiful Italian peaks of the Gran Paradiso.
We start our trip with two to three days of acclimatization on peaks in the Chamonix Valley. This alpine playground hosts spectacular objectives for all abilities and provides a perfect training ground to climb Mont Blanc. The many nearby lifts provide easy access to alpine terrain and routes like the Arete des Cosmiques and Aiguille d’Entreves are great day climbs from the Aiguille du Midi.
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Mont Blanc Itinerary
|Day 0||Arrive in Chamonix no later than today. Meet for dinner, equipment check, and go over itinerary.|
|Day 1||Ride the Aiguille du Midi, do an alpine climb appropriate to the current conditions and skill level of the group, and stay the night in a high alpine hut. Some of the routes we may climb are; Aiguille du Entreves, Arete du Cosmique, Traverse Point Lauchtal, or a traverse of the Vallee Blanche.|
|Day 2||We find another suitable alpine objective for the group and continue developing our skills with crampons and ice axes, as well as scrambling over easy rock. At the end of the day, we head down the Aiguille du Midi and stay the night in Chamonix.|
|Day 3||Today we sleep in, usually meeting around 10:30am in Chamonix. For the Goûter Route, we take the Bellevue lift up from Les Houches, then the train to Nid d’Aigle and finally enjoy a 2.5 hour hike to the Refuge de Tête Rousse. We arrive by mid-afternoon, organize our gear and rest in preparation for an alpine start between 1:30 a.m. – 3:30 a.m. for our summit climb of Mont Blanc. For La Voie des 3 Monts (Three Summit Route), we ride the Téléphérique de l’Aiguille du Midi, head towards the Col du Midi and stay the night in the Refuge du Cosmiques.|
|Day 4||Summit day! From the Refuge de Tête Rousse or Goûter hut (depending on availability) we climb up and over the Dome du Goûter, past the Vallot Hut (for emergency use only) on steepening snow and ice up to 35 degrees, to reach the summit from the west on an airy snow arête. From the Refuge du Cosmiques, we weave around countless crevasses to reach the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul, do a short descent into the Col Maudit, then up and over the shoulder of Mont Maudit (usually a few steep pitches of snow/ice at the top), traverse to reach the Col de la Brenva, and finally a bit more steep climbing, before the rather endless final sloes to the summit. For both routes we generally head back to the respective huts as it can be challenging to catch the last lift/train back to Chamonix. Also there is the possibility of doing the full Traverse from the Three Summit route over and down the Goûter route (options a plenty!).|
|Day 5||Arrive back in Chamonix by 1:30 p.m.|
It’s generally quite easy. Geneva (GVA) is the closest international airport to Chamonix (about an hour). There are numerous shuttle services providing very affordable transport around 30€ each way to and from Chamonix. We recommend arriving in Chamonix no later than mid-afternoon the day before we start as baggage and flight delays can become problematic. Once you have your flight itinerary please send it to us so we know your ETA, then book your final leg to Chamonix through one of these shuttle services.
- - UIAGM / IFMGA guide for 5 days
- - All expenses for the guide; travel, lodging, food and lift tickets
- - Technical equipment
- - Travel to and from Chamonix
- - Hotel and Hut fee
- - All Meals
- - Rescue insurance
- - Travel insurance
- - Gratuities
- July 30 – Aug. 3 (full)
- Aug. 23 – 28 (full)
- Aug. 29-Sept. 2 (2 spots)
- $3,000 1 climber to 1 guide
- $1,700 2 climber to 1 guide
- Price includes/excludes
IFMGA & AMGA certified guides